Four Nights in Sorrento, No Car Required
How my mom and I saw Positano, Amalfi and Capri from one home base, and spent one whole day doing absolutely nothing.
When we planned the southern stretch of our 16 days in Italy, my mom and I had one rule: no rental car. I’d heard enough about the Amalfi Coast road to know I didn’t want to be the one driving it.
So we based ourselves in Sorrento for four nights, unpacked once, and let the ferries do the work.
Why Sorrento works as a base
Sorrento sits right between the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Ferries leave from the port below town for Positano, Amalfi and Capri, so every day trip starts with a boat ride instead of a parking problem.
We stayed at Hotel Del Mare near Marina Grande, a 3 star hotel close to the water with a rooftop I still think about.
How we spent our days
Positano and Amalfi by ferry. Positano is all stairs, crowds and heat, and every bit as pretty as the photos. Amalfi was easier on the legs and came with lemon sorbet served in an actual lemon.
Capri by boat. A small-group boat tour around the island, booked through GetYourGuide, with a swim stop and a few hours to explore Anacapri. It was easily the best day of the whole trip. I wrote about it in Capri, From the Water.
A slow day in Sorrento. No ferries, no alarms. Gelato, a little shopping and the hotel rooftop. After two big days, it was exactly what we needed.
A few quick tips
Late May and early June were hot, in the high 30s, so plan for shade and pack light.
Have dinner at Marina Grande at least once. We liked Taverna Azzurra so much we went twice.
Leave more time than you think on Capri. Ask me how I know.
Want the whole plan?
My full Sorrento, Amalfi Coast and Capri guide has everything I wish I’d had before we went. It covers our hour-by-hour itinerary, the four trains it took to get there from Puglia, step-by-step ferry instructions and what everything cost. It also has where to stay at every budget, what to order, tips for travelling with a parent, and my honest picks of what’s worth it and what to skip.
For the stories behind the trips, including the messy bits, follow along on my Substack, The Lavender Suitcase.
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